by Bogumil Pacak-Gamalski
Yesterday was Canada’s birthday. A country set between three oceans. Amazing in size and in natural glory. A country now covered in a thick and dense fog of smoke. Smoke from huge fires from coast to coast. Just one generation and so much has changed. It makes me sad. I remember Canada from many years ago: splendid in its natural glory.
The monumental Rocky Mountains with glaciers feeding three rivers ending in three different oceans – there is no other country in the world that one huge glacier does it, the Columbia Icefields. It was immense – and my last journey through it with my husband about eight years ago, it was so much smaller. In one generation …
Calgary, the Rockies was my first home here. I was mesmerized by its majesty. The swaying fields of the prairies in Saskatchewan and the antelopes jumping over the fences along the highway. Eventually, we moved across the Rockies to Vancouver, to the shores of the Pacific.
What can I say? The city, the ocean with many islands and islets – it was just magic. And I worked on the sea, crossing every day for over twenty years the Salish Sea (it used to be called Georgia Strait prior to the just policy of returning to old native names existing before the white man arrival) on the way to Victoria. Vancouver Island. Tofino and Long Beach, the holy grail of cedar giants and Sitka spruce, and my magic tree – the poetic arbutus. How I mourned, when an old arbutus tree in front of the monumental Empress Hotel in Victoria, died…
From there, from the unique Stanley Park in Vancouver, we took the journey of our life and cross the continent to the shores of the Atlantic. The beginning of Canada, it’s birthplace.
Everywhere I had my secret places of magical force, places I went to gather thoughts, to sing joy and grief.
Stanley Park in Vancouver – popular tourist (and locals, too) attraction, yet it was so big, so dense in foliage, had so many little creeks, its own lake, unknown to many narrow trails, lost in the bushes – that you could spend the entire day there feeling like you are alone, far away from civilization. Pure magic. I went there just a few days before we left Vancouver to say goodbye to the trails and trees – my friends.
In Alberta’s Rockies, it was the Paradise Valley leading from Lake Louise to Moraine Lake and a much higher hike, from Lake Louise to Lake O’Hara, on the other side of Lake Agnes. The hike to Lake O’Hara takes you to an elevation of about 2300 meters – that is only 200 meters less than the highest peak of Rysy, the tallest mountain in Poland, my old homeland, where I climbed as a very, very young man.
In Halifax, my magic spot is just steps away from my home. Much smaller, and not as adventurous. Of course – all these travels and hikes from Long Beach, Alberta’s Rockies to the Atlantic take time. A few decades more or less. But that’s OK. Every season in nature and life alike offers different possibilities. That smaller place here I call My Rocks. The good thing is that I can go there any time of the day or night. I know probably every rock, its shape, and colour between two huge bridges: MacDonald and MacKay that span the length of the trail.
I think they know me, too. And so I went today there. First time in many days, as my health took a severe beating recently. Probably I shouldn’t. But I could not to go. In many ways, my story in Nova Scotia is the story of rocks. I fell in love with them during my travels there. I know them, I remember where they are, and how they look at different times of day and seasons. They are my friends.
The walk today was full of memories: of places. And of people, who are no longer with me. It was also sad – the air and sky were full of smog-filled fog. But in that fog, I saw their faces very clearly. Felt very alone and yet, very grateful that I had them all, and that I loved them dearly.
That’s a gift one can’t shrug off. Them and Canada. And I smiled again.










From top to bottom, left to right: first four pictures are from My Rocks in NS; me and my husband in Long Beach, Vancouver Islan; me and my sister visiting my very first apartment in Canada (Calgary, the building no longer exists); Dartmouth rocks, NS; My Rocks in Dartmouth, Canada Day walk; me and my sister in the Rockies (Spiral Tunnel near Field, in 2005); view of the McDonald Bridge connecting Halifax and Dartmouth.