Canada’s Ocean Playground … and some

Canada’s Ocean Playground … and some

Since Canada does actually have coastlines of three oceans: Pacific, Arctic and Atlantic it could be easily said that the entire country in an ocean’s playground. But there is actually a lovely beach in Nova Scotia that claims that name. I did not research why this particular one claims that title. Yes it is large, it is right off the highway (but without any large enough parking spaces) and it is nice … but it not the best by any means and it is off not very travelled highway. But it does claim that name.

I definitely suggest visiting it in the summertime. The ocean’s water is splendid, and those who also like a little hike – there is an amazing trek right of the side of enormous red rocky wal stretching a good few miles to the east. Very picturesque and with huge view of other bays close by and far away at the same time (including one of two best beaches on this coast: the Martinique Beach and Taylor Head Provincial Park beach). On the map and from the shore all of these bays and beaches seems to be next to each other, walking distance. But only if you can walk on water. Getting to most of them by car requires driving long distances. And precisely because of the abundance of these huge bays, many lakes in-between – the highway is a long journey.

Telling the truth I didn’t even planned to go there today. Been there first and last time during winter six years ago. Because it was winter, I didn’t pay much attention to the beach and didn’t swim in it’s water’s. It was just a way of visiting the old Acadian (French) settlements of Nova Scotia. The very first wintery drive back in December 2018 I took together with my late husband and this year’s journey had therefore a special sentimental, emotional aspect.

My original plan today was different. I wanted to visit a small outpost called Fisherman Beach which offered a beach and an outpost for small harbors for fisherman’s boats and houses at the end of Causeway Road. To get there you continue past Lawrencetwon on #207, which becomes Marine Drive. The fishermen’s tiny outpost is an absolute a gem. Unfortunately not so the beach just before it. Yes, the shore is lovely, very sandy, the bay is very secluded and sheltered from waves … but shallow as a tiny pond in the middle of a meadow. Maybe good for toddlers – I couldn’t swim in something like that.

I checked the map and noticed that ‘Ocean’s Playground’ is not far away. Drove back to Marine Drive and continued for few miles. Soon, right next to the highway, a gorgeous wide open bay appeared with lovely long beach ending with very high embankment of red soil and rocks. There isn’t really much of parking anywhere there, just for few cars. But you could easily park on the side off the highway. I didn’t have a problem, the fact that it was weekday and the water is still very cold – there was nobody on the beach. Sadly, because the weather was fantastic. There were nice waves, but not a huge ones. Water was cold, but not freezing. Swimming was very refreshing, although in short distances and intervals. Certainly in a month or two the water will be fantastic. After the swimming, I took my camera and went for a long trek alongside that red wall od rocks and soil. The views are fantastic. You have to pay attention to your feet – the roks are large, hardly any trail between them. Despite these warnings – I strongly suggest to do it anyway, it offers one of the best views of many far away huge bays and beaches beaches – all of them I recognized and visited many times before.

After returning form that very interesting trail, I drove up the #207 through the picturesque and old Acadian settlements of West Chezzetcook. Strongly suggest to do it. A lot of history and a lot of different cultural and historical colours – including the ever present tri-colors of French Acadians.

From West Chezzetcook I took left turn to highway #7 and continued on a very picturesque drive through communities of Porter Lake and Lake Echo settled like a dream on many bays and coves of enormous Porter Lake. Through them I drove back to Dartmouth via Main Street.

Out of Despair – a story of a wintery trip to a snowy beach

Out of Despair – a story of a wintery trip to a snowy beach

The story is written in poetic verse, which is perhaps the easiest way to express emotions that are too intense to convey in normal language. I’m going through a difficult time as I prepare to make a monumental move, and I have to discard or abandon a lot of my belongings. Our belongings. This process has forced me to go through them all in detail, it has opened a Pandora’s box of memories. These are not just my memories: these are our memories.

Last summer and autumn, I often escaped to the beaches for days at a time to get away from reality. But now, with the sorting of our things, that heavy feeling of despair has returned. Despite the cold wind, light snow, and rain I had to return to the beaches. I had to try to find you again for a moment, if for a moment only. It seemed that by doing that I wanted to overcome the feeling of drowning. On this trip I kept imagining a theater stage and Shakespeare’s Richard III. Richard III with his desperate plea for a horse, his bargain with the Fates.

The phantoms of despair are everywhere. 

Six, I think that I slayed. But not the one I needed.

A horse, a horse! My kingdom for a horse! I yelled, I begged!

as in a story said by English bard long time ago,

per chance, of dying Plantagenet with a blow to his head.   

My kingdom for a horse! I yelled in powerless furry

 at the ice-cold waves of roaring sea on Eastern shores.

I screamed, I raised my fists, and stomped my feet.

And words were taken by a wind

and silenced by another wall of deep.  

I cried out in pain falling to my knees,

beaten down, with no sword, no horse.

and no shield – ‘just once’ – I whispered

with no sound leaving my lips – ‘for a moment

let me see his face again, let me tell him

without words that I do and always will’.

And then, resigned I turned away from the sea

and saw in front, in a fair distance,

on the crest of the sand dunes – human shape,

familiar form, protected by warm, thick cape.

I wanted to run toward him – but couldn’t move;

wanted to scream – but no sound left my lips.

And yet – I heard his words as clear as daylight:

I know you do and I do love you, too.

I have no kingdom and no need for a horse anymore.

No need for heavy swords and glory in the battles.

That chilly day on a windy and snowy beach,

with cold stabbing your bones as battleaxes –

that instance becomes as warm as paradise.

I went back home with a smile and a head held high.

(by B. Pacak-Gamalski)