Some time, on this pages, I have published a piece about the history of the oldest University in North America, Kings College in Halifax. Kings College eventually become part of one of the largest university in Canada, the grandiose Dalhousie University of Nova Scotia. I have eventually, on this blog, published a photo series of the university.
The massive complex of Dalhousie stretches through many blocks of the city. It brings life and vibrancy to the city’s core and creates many mini-communities of students and faculty. Encompasses the past and the future. Is integral part of it’s life, atmosphere and pulse. Gave me many pleasurable strolls, moments of reading an interesting book of poetry or novel, writing in my own notebooks my poems or musings on many subjects. University campuses do that to you, LOL. And I love it.
But I have always heard of a special, far away campus of Dalhousie. The entire Faculty of Agriculture. It sits somewhere in a community called Bible Hill, part of larger city of Truro. I have past Truro countless amount of times. It sits right on both sides of meeting of two major highways connecting Nova Scotia to the West of Canada and to the South on Nova Scotia. But what you see, when you are passing the city on highways is hardly and appealing site. The ugly big magazines, some big malls. Sort of ugly site of North America with ever sprawling ugly malls without any character or architectural originality.
Yet, I have heard many times of that Bible Hill campus. As I will be soon leaving this province, I had to visit it. Additional emotional reason was also the fact, that a dear friend of my husband and through him mine – was borne in that city, went to school there. But left it many years ago moving to the West (Calgary and Vancouver) and never seen the campus that was built little way out of the main city. So I did and hope that she will appreciate it.
It is a site to behold. Many red brick old university buildings, spread through a large swath of land. No wonder – it’s laboratories are in the fields, in the valley. We are talking of agriculture and botany. Living university. I am so glad that I did.
In no particular order here is the view of this wonderful campus.
Children are amazing people! Throngs of beachgoers are squeezed next to ech other on the sandy beach – but a child knows better: what could be more magic than playing in a mud in little stream rushing toward the ocean? Child imagination dwarfs imagination of an adult.
Dzieci są niesamowite! Tłumy plażowiczów ściśnięte na słonecznej plaży niby złote sardynki w puszce z olejem. Ale wyobraźnia dziecka pracuje inaczej – cóż może być wspanialszego niż położyć się w ciepłym błotku strumienia spływającego wartkim nurtem do oceanu? Tam dopiero cuda można sobie wyobrażać.
Kolejny przystanek mojej podróży pożegnań z Nową Szkocją. Tym razem do miejsca wyjątkowego. Ostatni raz byłem tu chyba około trzy lata temu. A jeździłem często i John ze mną jeździł póki zaczął unikać i szukać wymówek lub namawiać mnie bym pojechał w taki dzień, gdy on pracował. Wtedy jeszcze nie wiedziałem, że większe wędrówki zaczynają mu już sprawiać bariery niemożliwe do pokonania.
Na szlaku od plaż ku skałom miałem takie ‘prywatne małe poletko skalne zawieszone ponad ścieżką. Na tym poletku, o odpowiedniej porze roku, rosły poziomki i jagody. I znosiłem mu cierpliwie czekającemu pełne garstki tych cudowności. Oponował naturalnie niby oburzony, gdy mu kazałem otworzyć usta i sypałem do nich z mojej dłoni słodkości. Oponował – ale zjadał, LOL. Wiedział, że robi mi tym przyjemność. Takie nasze idiosyncrasies urocze. Tylko pilnował by nikt, broń Boże, akurat nie przechodził i nie było świadka, że je świeże, niemyte owoce i to prosto z mojej ręki! Potem dochodziliśmy do małej plaży nudystów (tu już nawet nie sugerowałem by się rozłożyć i popływać przed skalna wspinaczką. Ostatecznie zbyt dobrze się znaliśmy – to by był koniec wycieczki i basta, LOL). Tyle lat w Vancouverze i plaże tam (w tym dwie nudystów, jedna popularna koło Uniwersytetu) – ale mowy nie było by nago w biały dzień się pokazał. Wracając do Nowej Szkocji – za tą plażą zaczynała się wspinaczka przez wąskie ścieżki kosodrzewiny i przez potężne, zawieszone nad szalejącym Atlantykiem skały i głazy. Nigdy nie szliśmy razem aż tak daleko, jak ja samotnie. Ale nie potrzebowaliśmy. Piękno widoków i krajobrazu mógł docenić i zachwycić się nim na tym odcinku, jaki robiliśmy. Chodziło o to, by to była dla nas radość i satysfakcja, a nie coś wymuszonego. I tak szliśmy daleko, dalej niż większość turystów i miejsc kompletnej prywatności nie brakowało bym i ja mógł smakować te jagody i poziomki z jego ust …
My next stop on the journey of saying ‘goodbye’ to Nova Scotia, our Nova Scotia. Mine and John’s. The last time I was here, I think, was about three years ago. I love that spot. The only beach and long hiking trail on western side of Halifax. We used to go there together, whenever it was possible and when it was possible. Our hike was usually shorter than my solitary were – but long enough to fully appreciate the wild beauty and majesty of massive rocks and boulders and the unrelenting power of the ocean below.
On the way to the rocky trail, pass the beaches and people I had a small secret meadow full of wild strawberries and blueberries. If it was in season I would go there and John would wait on the trail till I come back with both fists full the sweetness of the berries and empty them into his mouth. He pretended to be offended by it … but ate them, LOL. We had to make sure that there was no one approaching on the trail. Heaven’s forbid someone would see him eating fresh fruits and from someone’s hands! He like it, though. Maybe not as much the fruits (John wasn’t really an aficionado of fresh fruits) as the fact that he can make me smile and be happy. Our little idiosyncrasies. Next on the trail was a tiny nudist beach. No, I knew better – didn’t even ask him to stop and go for swim before the hike. Naked in public, beach or no beach?! That would be the end of the walk and the trail, no question asked. I knew what I can ask him of, and what I should not. Idiosyncrasies is one thing and disrespect is another. The true trail started right past that beach. Narrow and easily lost, covered with rocks and roots, often very wet and muddy from numerous tiny creeks rushing toward the ocean. Eventually you got to walkable huge slabs of rock and the amazing view of the majesty and power of the Atlantic. It truly is something to behold. We never went that far, as I venture sometimes, but far enough to absorb the atmosphere, the enormity of nature. And there, on these rocks, far enough from typical tourist or beachgoer, I would find a spot invisible to anyone, secluded … and have my way with the wild strawberries and blueberries off his lips!
Below, pictures from yesterday – poniżej zdjęcia z wczorajszej wędrówki
Widoczna na zdjęciu latarnia morska na wyspie Sambro, która jest ‘bramą’ to wejścia do portu Halifax jest najstarsza latarnią morską w Północnej Ameryce i do dziś operującą.
Pictures of the Sambro Island and the lighthouse remind us that it is the first lighthouse built in North Americas and it is still operational.
I went there again. Maybe the last time? My time here is shrinking, time on this land perched over Atlantic, our land. Maybe in a month or so I won’t be here? Hence, I came today. To our Fort of Love, our love, our castle built on sand with solid rocks, boulders.
Yes, it still is here on this wild beach, far away from any venturing tourists. My hidden sanctuary of talking pebbles, tubal music of waves, clouds of black and white sandpipers flying in unison formations as a single body; ever present individual seagulls, pretending to be busy looking for crabs and dead clams, but observing you all the time. When I am there, I am part of that all, not a visitor but rather a feature belonging there. The flora there is very sparce and in constant struggle to survive. The dead ones are giving all their content as nourishment to the new ones. The sea and sand don’t offer much to land creatures. Occasional dead tree from far away bay or island. Not much but nothing is wasted in that austere environment. Meadows and patches of short forest on the land are separated from that spot by a big and deep saltwater lake. Sometimes, when I am tired of playing with the ocean waves, I go for a longer swim in that lake, its surface is always still like a glass. It must be incredibly deep. There is maybe three or five meters of very easy shallow water and than suddenly it just drops like from windows ledge to a dark deep water. I’m always surprised how dark and impregnable to light that water is.
The shore, where the local road ends, has a small, rocky beach. Almost always, if the weather is OK, there is a small group of locals. Three, sometimes a ‘crowd’ of ten even. They don’t come as far as where I am with my Fort. I have seen once or twice one person or a couple venturing there. You need to cross a fast-moving sea ‘river’ (natural canal connecting the lake and the open ocean) to get to my monastic desert.
But they – the locals – know that the Fort is there. It is the only man-made structure. By now they must also know me, recognize me, when I come with the same red folding chair, a stick in hand and a backpack, as I traverse the water like a hermit coming back to his cell. They see me from far away, sometimes wave to me while I gather more rocks to fix the Fort. It did survive fall, winter and spring. Many storms and big waves. But a good monk always fixes his dwelling for the glory of god – and my god is Love.
Do the locals call it a sanctuary? Maybe. Sanctuary of Love. I like it. Our love, anyone’s love. I am not at all jealous of that love. Love doesn’t belong to me. I just tend to it. She is sacred.
Maybe Venus comes here by sunrise and dances naked by the Fort? Maybe all of them, these crazy Greek gods, come: Venus, Apollo, Narcissus, Orpheus. Maybe even Helen of Troi dances with them? With whom Helen would dance? With handsome Prince of Troi or with Menelaus, her husband? Sappho of Lesbos later explained that choice in her poem, when she argued:
Some say a host of horsemen, others of infantry and others
of ships, is the most beautiful thing on the dark earth
but I say, it is what you love
and few thousand years later, I agree with her wholeheartedly. But it doesn’t matter with whom they dance. Let them dance with whom they want. Let them lit the mighty sky with pyres hot of flames of passion.
August 08, 24
Hey! Yes, you Narcissus. Come here and sit by me. Don’t cry, don’t drown in unanswered selflove. Go to disco tonight. They have one in the club called Elysium. Go there, dance and let go off sorrows. Kiss someone, make love to someone, anyone for Heaven’s sake! They will appreciate you youth, vigor and looks. Me? No, my dear boy. I have loved hundreds of times, thousands perhaps, for a day, for an hour. Until I was confiscated, possessed, taken by Love itself. By that one special Boy. One, who become the air I breath, my blood, my waking up and falling asleep. My song and my poem.
But be aware – Love is immortal, but you are not. When The Boy (or Girl) will go (as everything temporal does) you will be broken in half. Shattered like pebbles on the beach, that are constantly thrown by huge waves until only scream remains, only cry to Heaven. But Heaven will have its gates locked by Death.
Love, dear boy, is not for timid souls. Love is only for brave or insane souls. It is Love that holds the saved obol in your outstretched hand, while pounding with your other fist at this gate. The Gates of time, of mourning, of grief. Demanding, pleading for them to be opened. With that obol as a magic key. Hoping but not knowing what is on the other side: reunion or emptiness, nothingness. Yet knowing now, when you are at these Gates, that even nothingness is better than half-living.
August 1, 2024 – one of European capital cities stands still. At the prescribed hour (in that city called “The Hour W”) the sirens gave loud signal, and everything stopped: the cars, the transit, people on the streets, even in stores. The letter “W” contains two words: Warsaw and Fight (Warszawa and Walka). Yest, that city is Warsaw, capital of Poland. Happens to be also my city, the city of my most formative years – my youth.
What happened? Why? Did Warsaw pick up arms and went to war? No, of course it did not. Warsaw remembered. The entire country remembered. All major capitals of Europe remembered, too. The President of Germany came to Warsaw to remember, and to offered sincere apology and asked for forgiveness. The entire Diplomatic Corp in Warsaw took part in that event. I assumed the Canadian Embassy, also did. It is hard to say because not a single major newspaper or major TV Network in Canada did even mention it during their news. Really? This was not a news for Canadian CBC or CTV? While giving us typical news of the day, little stories of this and that. But nothing of major event in major capital of Europe? Shame on CBC and on CTV, shame on ‘Globe and Mail”, ‘Toronto Star’ ‘Winnipeg Press”, ‘Montreal Gazette’ and others.
August 1, 1944. Eighty years ago.
After five long years of bloody terror of Nazi occupation, young men and women of Warsaw area hoped to take revenge on the occupiers, to exact a price for their daily executions, for the annihilation of Jewish ghetto, for years of indignity and suffering.
On the Eastern Front the Soviet Army was marching and bringing new form of occupation and territorial Anschluss of entire Eastern Poland. On the Western and Southern front, the US, the Brits and Polish armies with major help from Canadian divisions were liberating Italy, France, Belgium and Holland. But the progress on the Western Front was slower than the advances of the Soviets. Originally the main puch of the armies of the West was going to be through the Balkans – making it a faster and better route. But Stalin demanded that their aim should concentrate of the Western, not southern advance. Through Normandy. He wanted to secure Poland as the future satellite of Soviet empire. Stalin knew that if these armies with Polish soldiers under the command of general Anders and Sosnkowski would enter Poland – the entire nation would stood with them and fight the Soviets. Churchill and Roosevelt capitulated and gave Stalin what he wanted.
Polish Government in London and the Polish Underground Home Army (AK) in Poland were hoping – against visible signs that it will not happen – that it will be able to use massive air bombardments of German forces in Poland, even sent to Warsaw Polish Airborne Brigade1 and aid the Warsaw fighters. Therefore, plans have been prepared for the underground forces in Warsaw to plan for the Uprising.
When it become clear that none of the help would come – it was too late to stop the young men and women, that preparation went too far, the original victorious propaganda worked and people believed that victory and revenge was possible. At the end – the Polish Commander-in-Chief in London gave the underground commanders in Warsaw advice that they must make that decision themselves. To try to postpone the” W” hour, if possible, but otherwise it would be their decision. But things were too advanced, young people were ready and eager. A noticeable movement of people, armaments in days prior to the uprising did not go unnoticed by the German army intelligence and the SS. They started making preventive arrests, searches for arms and people. In the meantime, the Soviet armies were gathering right outside of Warsaw and Poles did not want to change the Nazi occupation to Soviet occupation. Young people of Warsaw believed it was now or never. They wanted to establish rightful representatives of legal Polish Government and welcome the Soviets not to occupied Warsaw, but free democratic Warsaw with legal local governments and councils under the auspices of the legal Government and Polish Constitution.
On August 1. 1944, it started at 5 PM. It lasted two months. Lack of arms was the decisive factor in their inability to overcome massive German garrison in Warsaw, heavy bombardment by air, artillery. The unheard-of heroism of the freedom fighters and entire population couldn’t change the reality. The result was the total and meticulously planned full and complete destruction of the entire city. Street by street, district by district. Whoever survived in the ruins were marched in columns out of the city.
Each one of the people who survived went through hell and deserves undying respect for their heroism. Now, eighty years later there are only a handful of them still alive.
I remember from my childhood, youth and early adulthood many of them. Back in Poland and those I met later in the Polish diaspora in England, Italy and Canada. They were my dear friends and I miss them a lot. Our talks, their stories. Remember by heart their poems of that time, sung their songs. My every visit in Poland includes my solitary (or with the youngest family) visits to special places on Warsaw streets, with special monuments (mostly the familiar little plaques or cement tableaus on buildings of people, who died there: poets, high ranking commanders, places od famous street battles or name of battalions and formations).
In the Wola District there are three places I’m thinking of right now: the Museum of the Warsaw Uprising; a little cemetery of Reformed Evangelical Church, and small two bedroom apartment on Szpitalna Street 1 in the center of Warsaw. It is all connected to one very special person, very special to my heart. A small but always very fast-moving frame of an older woman. My aunt. Professor of Pediatrics (or, as she called herself ‘children’s doctor) Zofia Lejmbach. My Hero of the Uprising. True unsung hero.
Here is my story of that small-framed woman.
Must go back to the beginning of 1970ies: I am just entering my early teens, still before my high school. Don’t remember where exactly I met her the first time, at what family gathering. But I remember the years when I started visiting her on my own. Usually it had to do with either evening concert in the Warsaw Philharmonic (a short walking distance to Szpitalna Street) or theater performance in Atheneum Theater, or Polski Theater or Dramatyczny – all close to that apartment. At that time I lived with my parent in a small town about an hour’s drive by train from Warsaw. Neithe they nor myself wanted to travel on that train by night. Could stay with my grandma, who lived lived in Mokotów District. My excuse was that Mokotów is o far away from the center of Warsaw. So, Aunt Zofia volunteered that I should come and stay overnight with her anytime I want to. And I did. I loved it.
She always made sure I had a nice supper and breakfast in the morning but no fuss whatsoever. Supper and breakfast were when we talked. Otherwise, she was busy writing, studying books that were lying everywhere: on her desk, on shelves, on the floor. Often there would be visits from some young doctors from the clinic asking for some advice or tutoring. Once a week there was an elderly elegant woman, Auntie welcomed her cordially, asked me not to disturb them and that women would go to Auntie study and door would be closed. Once I asked her about the visits and she told me that she is an older French language teacher on a very meager pension and under the pretext that Auntie needs conversational lessons in French – she helps her to maintain financial stability and dignity. Soon, I started to suspect that they were simply old lovers, and the French lessons was just an excuse. Zofia spoke perfect French; I heard her many times over the phone using it. Maybe I was wrong, but maybe not. But she was after all a single woman. Was her entire life. Both of her sisters married, had children and grandchildren. She never did. She gave me once some feeble romantic story from Kiev just before the Bolshevik revolution where she fell in love and her lover drowned in the ‘porohy of Dniepr’ (a fast running water with natural steps-falls in the bed of the river creating deep pools of whirling water). Maybe. It was a bit too bookish for me, at that time it was already over sixty years old story. But also – maybe down deep Aunt was very romantic. After all, she was from the old times, when stories like that were not out of sort. And she didn’t need a man to secure her material existence – she was well paid and renowned doctor. On the other hand, Zofia’s demeanor was sort of of … manly? As we would say today – lesbianish, LOL? I think so. As I grew older I think she suspected that I was from the ‘other Parish’, too. But it was different time – no one talked about things like that. Not in family gatherings with the youngsters being present, Heavens forbid!
My mind takes me back to that room I often occupied on Szpitalna 1. I was left to myself in that guest room, where I had an entire library full of amazing books. No idle talks. If I went to grandma’s, I would have to devote all my time to her and we would talk all the time, nonstop. Sometimes it was OK – sometimes I just wanted to scream. With Aunt Zofia none of that applied. If I had a question about some of the books (there were a lot of non-literary titles) – I would ask her, and she would almost always reply: I am too busy right now but please come back in two- or three-days’ time and we will talk about it. Sure enough – at that time when I did, she had another two or three books that she suggested I should use as a reference and had her own short talk that explained the subject to me in a language more to my age and knowledge. Some of the books I started reading were seriously above my level. But never ever have I heard her saying the famous and dismissive: my dear, you are too young to understand it, it is not a book for you. I was a young adult, not a child. At least that was how she related to me. That was my Aunt I remembered personally and fondly.
But there was another Zofia Lejmbach I have learnt about later, from other family members and mostly from books and documents much later. She never talked about herself unless absolutely forced.
Zofia Lejmbach was born in 1901 in Minsk in Belarus (at that time all these territories of Lithuania, Belarus and Western Ukraine were part of an old Polish Commonwealth). My grandma’s mom and Zofia’s mom were sisters. In her early youth she was a member of Polish independence movement POW (Polish Military Organization) leading to the I world war. The front of that war found her in Kiev, where she was taking some nursing courses and tended to wounded soldiers coming from the battles. After the war she went to Warsaw and graduated from the Medical Faculty of Warsaw University. Later she worked in hospitals in Warsaw, Poznan, Paris, Rome and Strasbourg. When she came back to Warsaw she decided to specialize in pediatrics and work closely in the famous Hospital Karola and Marii in Wola District under the tutelage of famous pediatrician, professor Władysław Szenajch – father of Polish pediatrics. She remained with that hospital her entire long life. Including the years of German occupation and Warsaw Uprising. But of that later.
Part of the hospital became later (after the 2 world war) Działdowska Street Clinic for Sick Children, where for decades she was a Clinical Director. She was professor and pro-rector of the Warsaw Medical Academy in the 1960ties.
During the 2 world war she stayed in Warsaw with her hospital in Wola. Of course, early on she joined the Polish underground network of the Home Army (AK). Having not only high medical credentials but also military career during I world war, the Headquarters made her a Chief Sanitary Inspector for the District of Warsaw (that involved towns and villages near the capital) and during the Uprising – the Chief Sanitary Inspector of Warsaw proper. The Wola District was in a way the last stronghold of the Uprising and some of the bloodiest street battles took place there (of course apart from the worst and most gruesome fighting in the Old Town and the underground canals of Center Warsaw).
Prior to the start of the Uprising, she organized through Warsaw a string of small hospitals devoted to expected wounded fighters and the civilian population. She herself remained through the Uprising in the Wola District in the Hospital Karola and Marii. They were overwhelmed with heavy casualties, run out of medical supplies. The hospital itself was used as a target of German shelling and machinegun fire. Zofia Lejmbach was wounded herself but refused to step down from her position and tended to the wounded. After receiving information that the Germans were executing wounded fighters found in other hospitals, she decided to evacuate the hospital and all the patients. But it was 1944 in Warsaw, not at the front lines of opposing armies with transportation and order. There was no available cars or anything. She scoured the neighborhood and commandeered a single horse drawn carriage and loaded it to the brim with all her wounded patients. All the streets were in flames and Zofia was wounded herself in her arm. She had a plan. Her father, also a medical doctor, had a manor in Skorosie, not far away from Wola and Warsaw. She knew the local roads. Through the hellish streets of Warsaw, she led the carriage to the manor and saved all her patients. Not even one was killed. Later she learnt about the massacres the German and their allied right-wing Kamniski RONA Brigade2 perpetrated. The sheer barbarity and cruelty of the RONA soldiers shocked even the German SS Waffen. RONA Brigade consisted of Russian fascists.
And my mind takes again to that small room on Szpitalna Street no. 1. I am, let’s say 13 years old. Just finished reading famous book by Bronislaw Malinowski3, whose voyages to Australia and Oceania and Micronesia in the early XX century gave birth to modern anthropology, understanding of sexuality; he was doctor honoris causa of Harvard and professor at Yale University. His books – at that time – caused shock and havoc among scientists and among educated classes. Well, they did that time in my head – I was a 13-year-old boy! And it was 1970ties, not 2017, LOL. It was a different world. Aunt Zofia knock on the door to the room, I invite her, she smiles politely and says matter-of-fact: I noticed you are reading Malinowski’s book. Excellent choice. My face becomes instantly red and I mumble something, putting that book away. She pays no attention to my discomfort and adds: good, it is a very important book. If you don’t mind, I can find you something more modern and maybe clearer on these subjects. But do continue reading him, he was such an excellent writer. Do you want me to make you a lemon tea? She closes the door quietly and goes to the kitchen. Wasn’t she a wonderful aunt for a young fellow like me? Again – I was a young adult, not a child. How I appreciated that. And how upset and revolted my old dear grandma would have been with her cousin, LOL.
Zofia Lejmbach died in September 1995 in Warsaw. She was 94 years old. Her last few years were difficult as she fell down a ladder getting some books from a shelf and broke her hip. She lived alone all her life after the war. But managed to crawl to the phone on the wall and call for help. I left Poland in 1981 but kept in touch with her by way of letters. After the collapse of the Soviet system in Poland – things were very bad materially. Poland was broken by economic disaster of the system. Shelves were empty, no supplies of anything. That included medical institutions and the health system. With my friend I organized in Calgary some basic medical supplies, specifically for surgeries and for children’s health from the 3M Corporation. We packed everything in two large parcels and sent it off to Aunt Zofia. She was very thankful and told me how happy her working colleagues were at the clinic. Well, they all were her ‘children’.
In the red brick building on Obozowa Street in Warsaw Wola there is a huge Museum of the Warsaw Uprising. As you go from the Main Floor exhibition, using a large iron staircase there is a huge picture of young women running through the street during the Uprising. They all have the armbands of the Uprising. Zofia Lejmbach, their comandante, is the second from the front.
A little bit further, toward the Gdanski Train Station, on Żytnia Street is a small cemetery of the Protestant Reformed Church in Poland. Zofia Lejmbach and her family came from that old, historical branch of the Protestant religion in the eastern borderlands (Kresy) of old Polish Commonwealth. Doesn’t matter of fact she was the very first woman in Poland that rosed to the top rank in that Church – the President of the General Consistory. And that’s were, on that tiny cemetery, she was buried, in the same grave as her father, and her sister Natalia Wiśnicka. Her other sister, Irena Zakrzewska is buried ‘next door’, on much larger Protestant Augsburg Cemetery on Mlynarska Street.
Both of her sisters – Irena Zakrzewska (very distinguished and elegant older lady, who lived on Madaliński Street in a small bachelor connected to larger apartment of her son, Polish painter Leszek Zakrzewski, his wife and daughter) and Natalia Wiśnicka (lived on Krasicki Street in Żoliborz District) were also serving in Women Service battalions during the Uprising of 1944.
This is my story of a true hero of Warsaw Uprising. My Aunt Zofia Lejmbach. Freedom and independence fighter.
But before the British settled there, and before it become known by the name ‘Bridgewater’ it was an ancient large settlement of Mi’kmaq tribe for thousands of years. There is a rich collection of archeological artefacts attesting to their settlement at the mouth of the large LaHav River.
In 1604 the French Governor of New France Pierre Dugua de Mons visited these lands and by the mid-1600 there was first small French settlement there. In 1825 the first bridge was built and by 1850 the population grew to 300. At the end of XIX century the town had two railway connections – across the valley to Middletown and trains to Halifax. Easy access through the large and navigable river gave beginning of many industries, among which shipbuilding was a major force. It is probably a surprise to many, but the very first ship’s two-stroke engines were manufactured here and exported worldwide. It closed its operations in 1970.
Since the origins of the town, the western bank of the river was the heart and center of the city and so it remains. Most modern developments, shopping malls, concentrate on the east or left part of the city.
The historic town, its calling card, is the main King Street right along the banks of it’s beautiful river. It is connected by two bridges to the other side. Especially the old iron bridge is such a gem.
A walk on that long street is such a pleasure. It is like you are traveling back in time to a space where that time doesn’t travel so fast, doesn’t run in a hurry. Neither should you, if you ever visit.
As an interesting tidbit – did you know that famous Hollywood and Canadian actor Donald Sutherland spent his formative teenage years and graduated from High School in Bridgewater?
If I was going to stay permanently in Nova Scotia – I would love to move there. But I do suggest to Dear Reader – if you are visiting Nova Scotia, you absolutely must visit Bridgewater. You won’t regret it.
NOTE: The story will be in both, Polish and English. Some details might vary as I don’t translate any of my writings. And when I write in Polish – I think of the story in Polish and all my ‘Polish’ experiences both literary and personal take precedence. When I write in English – the same happens.
Relacja będzie po polsku i po angielsku. Nie tłumaczę moich tekstów. Gdy piszę po angielsku to, co piszę jest efektem moich doświadczeń literackich i personalnych w tym, anglojęzycznym kosmosie. Gdy piszę po polsku dzieje się to samo, ale polskie tradycje i doświadczenia są decydujące na widzenie otaczającej rzeczywistości.
My travels through Nova Scotia most of the time takes me to Eastern Shore or to the north. It is my magic place – the wilderness, certain sense of rustic and old adds charm to it. Of course, the other attraction is my craziness about beaches – Eastern Shore is one big beach! Every turn of the highway there is one. Some small, other vast and long. And huge, massive ocean bays make it a long drive and always offers new experiences.
Halifax is the hub of the entire peninsula. The world to the east is different from the world to the west and south.
The shore is different, the beaches are different. Even the towns and cities are different.
I think that huge St. Margarets Bay is in a way a symbolic point where the shore and the communities change: to the east of it – the rustic and a bit culturally different character but with one of the best beaches in the world; to the west the charm is more subtle, more refined, communities seem to be more affluent. Shall I say – more continental? But the beaches are nowhere near the beauty of Eastern shore. I guess, there must be balance, LOL.
Moje podróże po Nowej Szkocji w tym roku są jednocześnie moimi pożegnaniami z tą prowincją. Pożegnaniami miejsc znanych i wielokroć odwiedzanych. Ot, choćby ulubione plaże wielkich zatok wzdłuż Wschodniego Wybrzeża. Z szalejącymi wielkimi falami Atlantyku, z wijącą się, jak wąż w trawach wydm, czarną nitką szosy nr 207 i 107 – po jednej stronie błękitna stal Atlantyku, z drugiej gęste, ale niskopienne i rachityczne lasy. Uwielbiam te plaże i grzywacze, na grzbietach których daję się nieść niczym drobny liść.
Zachodnie wybrzeże jest inne. Ta inność zauważalna jest od olbrzymiej St. Margarets Bay: na północny-wschód owa rachityczność lasów i rachityczne też, zapomniane niekiedy miejscowości i osady; na południowy zachód lasy bardzo gęste, rosłe i potężne, a miejscowości zadbane, kolorowe. Odnosi się wrażenie, że zamożniejsze. Bez wątpienia (znając już tą prowincję dobrze) widać pewne różnice kulturowe. I faktycznie tak jest. Północo-wschodnia Nowa Szkocja zamieszkana jest tradycyjnie przez ludność pochodzenia szkockiego, więcej – ludność tzw. Scottish Highlands. Byli to najbardziej (do dziś są w pewnym stopniu) ubodzy i najmniej wykształceni Szkoci. Odcięci od świata i mieszkający w odległych i ubogich kresach oraz na Hybrydach i Orkadach. Południowo-zachodnia Nowa Szkocja to w dużej mierze osadnictwo kontynentalnej Europy i Anglosasi środkowej i dolnej części wysp brytyjskich.
So far, I have never travelled past Mahone Bay and Lunenberg. My late husband did in 2018 with his two brothers and niece, while I was for few months in Europe. The beautiful highway 103 makes the travel very pleasurable and fast. I did stop in these two most picturesque cities in the entire province. One famous for very ‘artistic’ entrance – the moment you come out of wooded highway the panorama across the bay shows you a view like a massive painting of a magic town: colorful, with yachts, and three tall steeples of three magical churches (all different Christian denomination) standing next to each other. Little bit further in the bay a famous Oak Island, where people still dig to find a legendary heist of Spanish gold taken from the Spanish galleon by pirates and hiding it supposedly thousands of miles from Caribbean seas on that island. A short drive from Mahone Bay lays on massive hill Lunenberg – home to famous schooner ‘Bluenose’. Famous for mercilessly beating the Yankees in yearly regattas a hundred years ago. I stopped in these towns mainly to re-visit them, say goodbye and walk the steps full of sentiment and memories of times we walked there together. John and me. Memories of our happy days. But it wasn’t the planned purpose, the aim of my drive. The aim was to drive to the very end, the southern most tip of the province.
To say it shortly and precisely: to go to West Berlin and East Berlin. Why not. Been to Berlin many times, like the city a lot, its vibrancy, its rich history. Walked in western part of it and eastern part of it. Usually, I would take a flight there, didn’t know that I could just drive there! LOL.
Szeroka i w dużej części czteropasmowa szosa 103 prowadzi do południowo-zachodniej granicy półwyspu. Stamtąd już tylko skok przez wodę i Ameryka. Ale po drodze są dwa najbardziej urocze miasta Nowej Szkocji: Mahone Bay i Lunenburg. Malownicze, jakby z ram obrazów romantycznych pejzażystów. Do miasteczek można jechać przepiękną boczną drogą (szosa nr 333 od Halifaksu, potem nr 3) nad samym wybrzeżem – ale to wydłuża jazdę kilkakrotnie i bez noclegu o osiągnięciu celu mowy być nie może. Zatrzymałem się w tych miasteczkach-perełkach ze względu na sentyment głównie, moje liczne wspomnienia ze wspólnych wycieczek tam z Johnem. Potem, po wyniszczającej chorobie, która go mi zabrała, byłem tam jeszcze z rodziną z Europy: z siostrzeńcem z Warszawy, który przejechał do mnie po pogrzebie Johna i siostrzenicą z Hamburga, która przyjechała z rodziną latem tamtego smutnego roku. Tym razem już sam i chyba ostatni raz.
Ale cel wyprawy był inny. Zdecydowałem tego dnia wykapać się na plaży w Berlinie. Konkretnie we Wschodnim Berlinie. No to wsiadłem w samochód i pojechałem do Berlina. Jak można samochodem z Nowej Szkocji pojechać do Berlina? Bardzo prosto – jechać tak daleko, aż dalej nie można. Do końca świata. Tego nowoszkockiego świata, gdzie ląd się kończy i zaczyna Atlantyk a w oddali widać brzegi stanu Maine.
Najpierw jedzie się szosą 103 do rzeki Medwey i zaraz po jej przejechaniu skręcić w lewo w Port Medwey Road, dojechać do krzyżówki z Eastern Shore Road i skręcić w nią w prawo (od zjazdu z szosy 103 droga prowadzi prawie bez przerwy przez lasy i nie ma tam w zasadzie osad jakichkolwiek). W pewnym momencie, blisko kilku dobrze zagospodarowanych domów, po lewej stronie drogi jest mały cmentarzyk Zachodniego Berlina.
Close to the end of our destination, off the small Eastern Shore Road begins the sparsely populated community of West Berlin. There is a local cemetery with the date of first burial being 1959. Therefore it is clear that the community begun either after the 2 world war or shortly before or during the war. There is nowhere any other close by settlement where people could be buried. The road ends at intersection with East Berlin Road, turn left here into it. From here the asphalt road end and the rest is gravel. After a very short distance there is a smal West Berlin Road to the right leading to small fishermen Warf. It is a very short detour but worth visiting as that is exactly where you can see the coast of USA.
From there you cant get lost. Just continue to end of the East Berlin Road until you can’t go any further. The sandy beach is on your left side. Long, beautiful and likely empty.
Na końcu dojeżdża się do bitej drogi East Berlin Road, która zaprowadzi nas na sama plaże. Nie miniesz plaży, bo droga przy niej się kończy. Czemu droga bita i z dużymi dziurami, a nie asfaltowa? No, proszę państwa – ostatecznie jesteśmy już teraz we Wschodnim Berlinie. A we Wschodnim za moich czasów to się nie przelewało.
A plaża? Ponad kilometrowa, z bajecznym białym piaskiem, zejście do oceanu łagodne i stopniowe. I ani żywej duszy. Może czasem jakiś jeden lub dwóch lokalnych mieszkańców tu i zajdzie, ale turysta tu żaden nie trafi. A plaż łatwo dostępnych w Nowej Szkocji nie brakuje.
Everybody knows, took part in, watched or heard of the big Pride Marches: Montreal, Toronto, Vancouver in Canada; London in England, of course Amsterdam, Berlin, Sydney in Australia, New York with it’s Stonewall history, San Francisco, Warsaw in Poland. At the very beginning, before human rights prevailed, these Prides were simply a protest marches, a call: we are here and we are not going anywhere.
Hard to believe, but even among advanced democracies in the middle of Europe, there are stil protest marches. Case in point is my own city, Warsaw in Poland. Country that still denies the basic citizen’s rights of living in a state-recognized unions, couples of other than heterosexual orientation. Specially the incomprehensibly denial to raise children, to be legal parents as a couple. In 2024. Shame on the coalition of Donald Tusk governing coalition. Specifically the Polish Peasant Party and their disgusting leader Władysław Kosiniak-Kamysz. The same party that still denies Polish women any abortion rights. Again – in 2024! Mr. Kosinaik-Kamysz – there is no longer any peasants in Poland. It is 21 century, not a year 1921. The girls, who live in villages in Poland today are having abortions, too. These girls are not peasants, either. They just need to go across the border to any European neighbor state. And you Mr. Kosiniak live in a fantasy land, together with Polish catholic bishops.
I remember my first Pride March (although I can’t remember if it already was called ‘Pride March’, I don’t thing so – we still had a way to go for many rights). Must have been 1983 or 1984, in Calgary. It started on 7 Avenue Mall by the old City Hall and (at that time) Central Library. We were going to march through the entire most popular and busy Seventh Mall Avenue almost all the way to the next bridge on the 14 Street. To our surprise, there was a Police blocking further access to the Mall Avenue (most popular and always full of people) and redirecting as via Central Street to the Sixth Avenue, not as busy with onlookers and not very prominent (again – at that time).
How things have changed since, unbelievable. The world have changed and people changed. True – there are still homophobes. But that’s OK. Nature is strange. The cockroaches didn’t change over the millenia, either.
Since than I took part in many big truly Pride Marches. As onlooker and as a participant. Almost all (if not all) Vancouver’s wonderful marches. With my husband John, with my Mom, with friends. The last one I took part in was the 2019 huge Parade in Halifax. It was the first time that there was (from my experience, anyway) such a prominent presence of Canadian Armed Forces (specifically the huge contingent of Canadian Navy. I had a very pleasant and long chat with the Commodore of North Atlantic Fleet.) and very visible presence of, I think, all Christian Churches with their priests and deacons. That was very heartwarming.
But apart from the big cities and big Marches there were the little ones: in Surrey, BC (in Holland Park), in New Westminster along the Columbia Avenue. And in so many towns and smaller cities across our vast country. Here are some from Surrey. To the left with me is one of the leading organizer of Pride Day events in New West, Jeremy Perry.
The Holland Park activities in Surrey were more like a big family festyn then traditional March. A tradition was always to have some concert of singers, dancing groups on a big stage in front of the main waterfall. And definitely a good food choices. Atmosphere was just to be happy. Liked them a lot. Below are some pictures from 2014, 15 and 17.
Last picture is from this year Pride in Halifax. A dancing and singing boat of night revelers of Pride.
On My Rocks perched just above the ocean’s channel a night could be a magic place. Summer time especially. The city is still alive till wee hours with happy revelers, some are dancing and singing onboard small tourists boats. The lights of the city dance on the surface of the water and above it is one huge reflector of the stage – full Moon. It slowly sweeps the stage from one end to the other. And behind you, on the shore, in the shrubs and wild flowers comes the other song, the song of old time – the cicada.
Moons and Sycamore tree
One step, check the stones carefully!
They might be slippery in peach black night
and the water below is not the best for swimming.
But is it water indeed down there?
It looks strange with all the lights shining
on the surface, dancing like crazy lady
listening to an old country song from Tennessee.
The moon comes and looks down at the water.
It’s as surprised, as I am, seeing so many of it’s
faces mirrored in it. Two moons, four, six…
It screams at the water: that’s enough!
You make me dizzy with your witchery!
No one plays banjo anymore, only the one-note
song of the cicadas: I’m here, come, give me a kiss!
Oh, I have seen many moons on summery nights,
six and twelve at once, when I was drunk with love.
I have sung the songs of night birds and early birds,
Synopsis in English: My travels trough Nova Scotia’s Eastern Shore brought me so much joy through last year. I should say: OUR travels, mine and John, as that what it really was. Traveling through OUR places, OUR spots. Re-visiting them. Celebrating OUR time.
On surface it might have appeared as simply photographic chronicle of the gems this Province has to offer for a traveler. Of course, in a way it was, and I’m happy if it enticed someone to visit the wonders of our beaches. As wonderous they are, indeed. But this year, in the last few months, it has become harder for me to feel only the joy, the childish almost happiness in playing in waves of Atlantic. Muscular, powerful waves, that can caress you like if you were a child – if you trust them, if you respect them. Or can hurt you if you arrogantly pretend that you can outsmart them.
This year I started loosing John’s presence on this journeys. As if he become bored with the pretense of staging reality. Him becoming a shadow, but a shadow seldom willing to be an active part in these beach plays. Back in our days in BC, there used to be a Theater Festival in Vancouver called Bard on The Beach. There was a circus-like huge tent next to gray building of Vancouver Music Conservatory and Shakespeare was performed there.
My Bard lost interest in my festival of Love. So I thought. That is how my written chronicle of these visits with Atlantic had to turn to literary word, to prose and poetry. And now He is back with me again. Helping me again to find my spot on the map. My new place for OUR love, Our time.
And I can post again happy pictures of children frolicking in the water, of couples walking on shore holding hands.
In the Polish text below I write of my search of familiar places, of my past mountain peaks, about fog and mist that obscures the vistas from my memory. But I sense their presence. I will not translate it, it is pointless. But you, dear reader, will understand why I write what I write. With poetic prose, with poetry you escape the boredom of repetitions of the same images and stories. Even if they are small parts of one large story. In a sense – Epiphany of Love.
Ogarnia mnie dziwny niepokój, rosnący każdego dnia.
Stoję na wąskiej granicy oddzielającym skrawek plaży od nadbiegającej grzywy wielkiej fali. Galopuje w pianie opadającej jej z pyska białymi płatami, jak Wielki Koń Czasu. Tratuje kopytami plażę, wyrzuca wysoko w górę ciężkie kamienie wyrwane ziemi w odległych zatokach. Bawi się nimi, jak piłeczkami ping ponga. Przynosi zapach glonów, małż i wielkich ryb łypiących okrągłymi oczami bez wyrazu.
Oddalam się od tego pola walki. Idę w przeciwną stronę – do siniejących szczytów Wielkich Gór po drugiej stronie kontynentu.
Z dna zielonych dolin kieruję się w głębokie żleby skał. Wspinam się na grań przełęczy. Wokół gołoborza szarych skał, w dole ciemnozielone ramiona sosen. Szczyt nad przełęczą ma jedna stronę płonącą w promieniach słońca, drugą otuloną chustą mgły.
Szukam zagubionej ścieżki, zarośniętego szlaku, który ma mnie zaprowadzić do zapomnianego schroniska, chatki z kamieni i omszałych pni, która ma dawać schronienie zagubionemu nocą wędrowcy.
Zza tej mgły wyłaniają się nagle znajome szczyty Gór Świata: Świnica, Rysy i Zawrat tatrzańskie; kruszące się w spiekocie stare włoskie Apeniny; groźne śnieżne olbrzymy na granicy Patagonii i Chile; Mount Temple i Castel Mountain w kanadyjskich Kordylierach, majestatyczna strażniczka Gór Skalistych – Mount Assiniboine, górująca nad nimi z oddali Mount Robson; wyrastające z wiecznych lodowców szczyty Gór św. Eliasza na Jukonie; samotny szczyt Mount Cook w Nowej Zelandii; Dwa Lwy nad Vancouverem.
Kuszą spoza tej mgły, wołają cichym gwizdem świstaków: chodź raz jeszcze z dolin do nas! Opowiemy ci nowe stare legendy. I już bym czekan chwycił, już buty silne założył … i nagle budzę się w składanym krześle na plaży atlantyckiej, która mnie uśpiła monotonną kołysanką fal. Pod nogami leży w piasku notes z jakimiś historiami o jakichś szczytach w różnych częściach świata. Od morza nadchodzi znowu mgła, robi się zimno. Czas się zbierać do domu.
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